The Red wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):Don an outstanding and detailed article on the carburetor rebuild. I like the way you incorporated the text and arrows into the picture. Job well done!!
Gregory Reed wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):You say that you can purchase fuel jets if you damage one getting it out. Where can you purchase the jets and how do you spec. them (ask for the right size}?? Also what are your recommendations for painting the carb. when you are done?
Ira wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):tried to retrieve a copy of overhaul- could only get first two pages- could someone check out situation- thanks
Matt wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):This is great. One question...as the carb seems fairly similar to my 560 Farmall, would the process be the same, or at least enough that I could follow the steps and work it through? If so, then this is a doubly valuable article...Thanks for the great description, and the pictures are an added benefit.
Robb Ruyle wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):An excellent article. However, a lengthy article like this, with detailed pictures, does not print out well in its current format. Many of the pictures end up partially on two pages of print. How about making the articles available in Adobe Illustrator format? That way, each page prints exactly "as seen," and the integrity of photographs or illustrations is preserved. Thanks for listening!
Wayland Davis wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):Excellent! Photos and step-by-step approach made this one of the best "how-to" tractor repair articles I've read.
Shep wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):Fantastic article - I am in the process of documenting everything in the same level of detail for my Oliver. This is so I have an on-line reference guide. However, my rig is not as clean as this one. Barring any unforeseen copyright infringements I would like to see a page dedicated to this for each tractor manufacturer, i.e. Oliver Tips & Tricks etc. I am currently assembling several comments from a variety of Oliver discussion boards into an MS Access db for something - not quite sure yet what this will yield. Shep
Ben Brodie wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):Great article and pictures. Thanks.
Paul Pirtle wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):Hello Site & author are to be congradulated & thanked for an excellent article. I have NAA Ford carb & rebuild kit sitting on bench ready to start the process using a video. This article and video covers almost all the bases. Was the choke shaft removal / replacement covered? Need to watch to be sure choke plate is installed with flapper door on the correct side. Info on carb cleaner is especially useful. My carb is very similar and you might want to check the photos as two of them may possibly be reveresed (left to right, the second and last photos). 8N may be that different but I am not sure.
Terry Danson wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):Exellent article! Written in simple terms that we can all understand. Keep up the good work. Lets see more technicle articles like this one.
tractor nut wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2001 (PST):Great job, what a great article.My buddy and I overhauled my 8n carb and what a difference it made.Any chance you could overhaul your generator next? Mine is not working ,like they say , a picture is worth a thousand words,and I need all the words and pictures I can get.
Don Andersen wrote on Wednesday, January 03, 2001 (PST):Great article and pictures. Very helpful.
Burl wrote on Wednesday, January 03, 2001 (PST):Good article. I especially liked the reminders to use the correct size screwdriver for jet and needle seat removal. Attention to that one item can save many folk a lot of headaches! Been there, done that!
Mitch Daly wrote on Wednesday, January 03, 2001 (PST):This was a very well written article and definitely very informative. The excellent pictures helped to make the entire process easy to understand. I have done a lot of carbs and can't think of anything that was missed in this article.
wc fowler wrote on Thursday, January 04, 2001 (PST):This article was outstanding in both description and visuals. My congratulations to Don Stewart and Yesterday's Tractors!The only difficulty I have encountered is in printing the article as it prints in partial pages. If there is any other way I could aqquire it please inform.
Ronald walton wrote on Thursday, January 04, 2001 (PST):Outstanding article! It has given me the insite to attempt my own rebuild. Thanks
Neal Senti wrote on Friday, January 05, 2001 (PST):Great article on carburetor overhall...for the first time in 20 years that I have been "throwing kits in carbs" here is a step-by-step that is thorough and tells why. Now I feel like I can accompolish something when I replace all of those little parts. Thanks!
Dave Coles wrote on Friday, January 05, 2001 (PST):Good article. The photos really help. I rebuilt my early 1954 NAA carb a year ago. It looks exactly like the one shown. Are they the same?
Mike OH wrote on Saturday, January 06, 2001 (PST):Don, you did an excellant job in putting together a detailed procedure that should help anyone needing to rebuilding their carb. Without the benefit of the guidance you have provided, I had to rebuild mine several times many years ago until I got it right. It may also be helpful to check the condition of the gas line connected to the inlet elbow after rebuilding the carb. Mine was pretty crudded up and needed to be replaced as well.
dave wrote on Saturday, January 06, 2001 (PST):thanks
Jim Moberly wrote on Saturday, January 06, 2001 (PST):This article is fantastic! The graphics are great and so is the narrative. I wish all "how to" articles were so clear and informative.
Dave_D wrote on Sunday, January 07, 2001 (PST):Top notch quality pictures, Three thumbs up! ;)
RAY wrote on Monday, January 08, 2001 (PST):DON, YOU DID A EXCELLENT JOB OF EXPLAINING AND SHOWING THE NOVICE AND THE EXPERIENCED TRACTOR MECHANIC HOW TO OVERHAUL THE CARBURATOR.I AGREE WITH TERRYS COMMENTS ON 1/2/01 AND KNOW YOU WOULD DO AN OUTSTANDING JOB REPAIRING THE FORD 9N/2N/8N GENERATOR. THANKS MUCH,RAY
Jerry Rivas wrote on Saturday, January 13, 2001 (PST):Good article....This will give you the basic principles of rebuilding almost any tractor or motorcycle carb. Keep up the good work!
John wrote on Sunday, January 14, 2001 (PST):Great job. I have rebuilt many of these units. The tisco seat is sometimes slightly longer than the original. You may need to run a tap through the threads to clean out rust so that the new seat will bottom on the gasket. If your carb still seeps check this. Again it was a great article.
Fargo wrote on Monday, January 15, 2001 (PST):Thanks so much. Your article enabled me to finally adjust my power mixture the correct way. I just gained 10% more power on my 8n. Thanks again.
Jim 158 wrote on Monday, January 15, 2001 (PST):Why was my comments deleted??? You ask for them then delete them because they don't agree with what you want to hear. I said that this is a copy of an old card book. I can scan it if you want me to.
Kim wrote on Tuesday, January 16, 2001 (PST):Jim, no comments have been deleted for this article. Please contact me via private email if you would like to discuss this further. kim@yesterdaystractors.com
veris thompson wrote on Thursday, January 18, 2001 (PST):how do i know which type of carb i have on my 9N its suppose to be a 47 model year.but it has an engine with an 8N serial#.but the rest of it is 9N all th way.
Taylor Tripp wrote on Saturday, January 20, 2001 (PST):I'd like to thank the author for this fine article. I don't have any Ford 8 N's, but the techniques apply to other makes. I've taken apart a lot of carburetors and really appreciate the author's comments and attention to detail. I'd like to see similar articles on clutch overhaul and hydraulic 3 point cylinder overhaul. Thanks!
David Lewis wrote on Thursday, January 25, 2001 (PST):This is the way to 'show and tell' so we can all do it right the first time! Congrats to Don Stewart for going to the trouble to do this for the benefit of all us tractor tinkerers.
Bryan Hordesky Summerland Equipment +Radiator Repair wrote on Saturday, January 27, 2001 (PST):RE; Carb overhaul, pay particular attention to gasket between carb body and seat. I have found that many leaky carbs leak due to the gasket not doing it's job. I own a radiator shop so test equipment is handy . I hooked an air line to the fuel inlet at 5psi immersed carb body in test tank of water and watch for bubbles.
ki dierdorf wrote on Wednesday, January 31, 2001 (PST):Very Well Done. Webpage layed very well organized.
MikeC wrote on Thursday, February 01, 2001 (PST):This is one of the best articles I have ever read. Well written, concise, easy to understand. The author should be paid for this!
Paul Pirtle wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2001 (PST):Hello I used this excellent article as a reference in a carburetor rebuild I just completed and found it an excellend data source. An addition; I found that the new float needle valve brass housing did not want to seat completely in the carb body. I found this was due to corrosion of the threads in the carb body casting. Measuring the threads on the brass housing indicated that the threads are 1/8-27 pipe thread. Use of this size tap to clean up the threads in the carb body casting allowed the brass housing to seat perfectly without excessive torque.
Bill wrote on Tuesday, April 17, 2001 (PDT):Excellent carb overhaul directions. Very clear and precise.If it is done as you suggest, carb should work perfectly everytime. Thanks and I am waiting for your engine and hydraulics overhaul sites.
Clint Brown wrote on Thursday, May 10, 2001 (PDT):This is one of the clearest, most complete and graphically excellent articles I've ever read. Thanks to the author!
Bob Krajicek wrote on Sunday, June 24, 2001 (PDT):Thank you. It isn't going to be a guessing game next time.
Bob Mork wrote on Saturday, July 28, 2001 (PDT):Good artical on carb rebuild, I didn't have one in my manual library, but do now. Thanx. Chill out Jim computers don't always work as advertised.
Larry Light wrote on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 (PDT):Thanx for the excellent instructions for overhauling 8N carbs. After reassembling my carb to the tractor, the engine started immediately, but ran at about 3000 RPM regardless of throttle lever position. What did I do wrong? Thanx for your help!
kevin wrote on Friday, October 19, 2001 (PDT):Thanks for doing such a detailed job to help the rest of us! You are one of those who actually make the internet useful. Exquisite!
Buddy wrote on Wednesday, February 27, 2002 (PST):Excellent article! I am attempting to rebuild a Marvel-Schebler TSX 688 manufactured March 57 for a John Deere 420 Row Crop Utility. The kit which I purchased from NAPA does not have the correct size throttle shaft seal and retainer. It has two that are too big and one that is to small. The shaft is .280 inches and the housing for the seal is .430. NAPA has ordered two additional kits and they are consistent in having the wrong size. ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHAT I CAN DO? Thanks, Buddy
Mike wrote on Saturday, March 30, 2002 (PST):Don, Congradulations on the finest depiction of the correct process to use in rebuilding the 8N/2N/9N carburetor I have seen in my 40 years as a mechanic. Again, excellent work! Mike
George wrote on Saturday, May 25, 2002 (PDT):What a great article. You saved me from a couple of real headaches. Thanks !!
Steve (NH) wrote on Saturday, August 17, 2002 (PDT):Thanks for taking the time to put this together. A big help with some real timesavers.
jeff ormsbee wrote on Friday, August 30, 2002 (PDT):thanks for the article!! great detail !! I'm getting a steady drip of gas coming off the throttle shaft....also is'nt there some packing or rubber seal that belongs on throttle shaft..I did'nt see one illustrated? would appreciate any help.. thanks jeff
Art wrote on Friday, August 30, 2002 (PDT):My son rebuilt the carb on my 9n and when he finished it will not run. Wish he had used the info you have given when he did it. Now we will attempt to do it again. The gas is not supposed to run out of the carb. is it?
rob murray wrote on Sunday, September 29, 2002 (PDT):Excellent.
Alberta Mike wrote on Tuesday, October 01, 2002 (PDT):I think all the previous comments voice my opinion on the great article. One thing however that people should be aware of is the fact that the brass (fuel nozzle, jets, needle seat) doesn't usually come out quite as easily as the article might suggest. The screwdriver size comment is a good one but perhaps more important is the fact that the cast iron carb body should be heated with a propane torch (or in an oven, etc.) before trying to remove any of the brass. Very often we are left with a useless casting when the brass piece is reluctant to be removed. I've done the dirty deed a number of times myself until a carb rebuilder told me what he does. I think you have to be a bit more careful with the heat if the carb body is pot metal (like many of the Zenith carbs).
steve wrote on Wednesday, October 02, 2002 (PDT):excellant
Bob Lorenz wrote on Friday, November 01, 2002 (PST):Great directions and pictures. I sure would like to see an overhaul of an 8N hydraulic system. Thanks for the great directions. Bob
Robert wrote on Thursday, January 23, 2003 (PST):This is a top notch article. I am a novice with old tractors and your article is very well explained and informative. Great work.
Ralph wrote on Wednesday, February 12, 2003 (PST):Wow! Great photos and descriptions of procedures!
mj wrote on Thursday, February 20, 2003 (PST):Excellent article....should save the first-timers a lot of time and aggravation.
Leonard Lilienthal wrote on Saturday, March 08, 2003 (PST):There's nothing to tell me how to remove the choke plate, the kit comes with a new shaft&spring for the choke and the old one has a broken spring and I'd like to replace it and I've removed the screws but it won't let go!!
Dave OH wrote on Monday, April 07, 2003 (PDT):Excellent Article. Should be on a re-build CD.
Bruce Pierce wrote on Thursday, June 12, 2003 (PDT):Don, Excellent article!! Thanks! Bruce Pierce
Steve(OR) wrote on Wednesday, June 18, 2003 (PDT):Great article - However I didn't see any mention of the choke shaft and butterfly, the throttle shaft packing or choke shaft packing (rubber and felt washers). How do these go on? Do they just slip on the respective shafts or does the packing need to be 'packed' in somehow?
John Capehart wrote on Sunday, January 25, 2004 (PST):Any comments on installing the "float support spring" that goes around the float needle?
Bob Dillard wrote on Sunday, March 21, 2004 (PST):In the article it was mentioned that "The rebuild kits are manufactured by TISCO (BK45V) and are available from tractor supply houses that sponsor Yesterday's Tractors 8N Discussion Board, and also manufactured by Sorenson and carried on special order by AutoZone and the like." Does anyone know what the part number for the Sorenson rebuild kit is?
WaltTX wrote on Monday, April 19, 2004 (PDT):Mr. Stewart, Your pics were a great help in overhauling a NAA carb that was brought to me in pieces. Thanks WaltTX
Jerry Denny wrote on Saturday, May 15, 2004 (PDT):Great article! Thanks a million. It made the job so much easier as the rebuild parts came with no instructions! Thanks again, Jerry Denny
Dave OH wrote on Thursday, June 10, 2004 (PDT):Fantastic! Beats the instructions with the kit which are too small also each step is clear and unclutered.
JD wrote on Saturday, August 14, 2004 (PDT):Thanks Don - this is very helpful. I am about to do this work because my Jubilee carb started leaking gas furiously yesterday. JD
gahorn wrote on Saturday, August 14, 2004 (PDT):Pity this article doesn't show the proper relationship of the choke and it's flapper.
danct wrote on Sunday, August 15, 2004 (PDT):i have done a few carbs but i learned a pile from this excellent article Thank you
Bill Perry wrote on Tuesday, October 19, 2004 (PDT):Great pictures and instructions. I have been trying to get my 8N running right for three months now.
Charles Box wrote on Friday, January 14, 2005 (PST):This is one of the best how to pages I have seen. I was impressed with the complete labeling of each part. I wish you would tackle a 1966 Chevy Truck carb two barrel. Thanks again for the how-to.
John Muskopf wrote on Monday, March 07, 2005 (PST):Beautiful work, Don. Thank you for making the effort and making it available to us first-timers.
DJR wrote on Sunday, June 12, 2005 (PDT):Very well done. But - would be more usefull if I could print it WITHOUT all the other stuff surrounding each page.
Wayne Mahurin wrote on Tuesday, September 13, 2005 (PDT):I need to replace the bushing for the throtle shaft. How do you remove the old bushing in the housing?
Bob Mayfield wrote on Tuesday, November 22, 2005 (PST):What about the choke assembly?
Bob Blanchard wrote on Tuesday, November 22, 2005 (PST):Excelent... well written and well illustrated. I give it an A+++++
b. kimmett wrote on Tuesday, December 06, 2005 (PST): HI, GREAT JOB WITH CARB. REBUILD. I CANNOT FIND THE "MAIN JET" IN THE BOTTOM OF LOWER HALF OF THIS CARB. IS IT UNDER POWER ADJ. NEEDLE OR MAIN NOZZLE? NOT GETTING GAS BEYOND THE INLET NEEDLE? STILL NOT CLEAR ON "FLAPPER"CORRECT POSITION ON CHOKE. THANKS BRIAN
Louis wrote on Saturday, January 28, 2006 (PST):I find this artical with the pictures and discription exelent. I wish I could find the same thing for my Holley carburator I have on my Ford 3400.
hilario fernandez wrote on Tuesday, March 28, 2006 (PST):thank you for the article....it saved my day
don barbee wrote on Saturday, April 01, 2006 (PST):Great article about Carb rebuild. Well written and well illustrated. Thanks for your help! Don Barbee
HCooke wrote on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 (PDT):Make sure chock valve has the little spring-loaded door on it. If missing this will cause hard starting.
Laszlo Simonyi wrote on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 (PDT):The carburetor overhaul was a great help to re-build my 1952 8N. She runs like a champ now! Thanks!!
rj muhlheim wrote on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 (PDT):One of the best carburettor rebuild articles I have ever seen. Toyota and Honda also do an excellent job. You might want to look at one of their early factory manuals. The languasge is a little too down home for me. If you know what to do there is no problem but if you don't you don't. Always consider who the target audience is, ie. clean the crud of the idle screw. could say " carefully count the turns needed to remove the idle control screw from the throttle lever and write it down on a clipboard, grasp the screw gently in a vise grip and clean it on a rotary whire wheel or by hand with a wire brush, brush or spray on a light coating of moly or lithium grease to the lever and screw and replace them as you found it, matching the number of turns needed to remove it." Something more or less would help the causual tractor owner to be a success. The photos were great. Good focus and lighting. I am fond of good line drawings but you can't always get what you want. These photos are much better than the Ford 8N manual I bought for $35.
Lewis E. Gunnoe wrote on Sunday, May 14, 2006 (PDT):Excellent carb. rebuild article -- getting ready to order kit and put all your information to good use -- the ole 52 is thirsty -- Many thanks, L.Gunnoe - A good starter rebuild article would be just as welcome !!! - 5/14/06 -
Dennis Clinton wrote on Thursday, June 01, 2006 (PDT):Thank you for this article. I am about to rebuild a carburetor off my '52 Ford 8N and this will be a big help. Thanks for the pictures and tips too. Great job!
BOBBY W. CRAIG SR wrote on Friday, June 09, 2006 (PDT):OUTSTANDING INSTRUCTIONS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. MY PROBLEM IS MY FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE SITCKS IN THE SEAT. I'VE DONE EVERYTHING SEVERAL TIMES, BUT AFTER ASSEMBLY AND RUNNING THE TRACTOR 10 MINUTES, IT DRAINS THE BOWEL, HELP! HELP! PLUS ITS A RUBBER TIP SEAT. ANY ADVISE ANY SUGGESTIONS
Jeff Nye wrote on Monday, June 12, 2006 (PDT):One of the best writen articles I have read - great pictures and very helpful on all the pitfalls that may come your way. Write more!
james owen wrote on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 (PDT):If you use a drift punch and ballpeen hammer (small one) when removing the jets they will come out with ease usually. Your punch should be square on the end that will contact the jets, and about the same size as the jet top surface (area where screwdriver fits)one to small will destory the jet hole. One to big will contact the carb body and do nothing or destory the carb body. Be real careful when removing the main jet it is way down in side the carb body and has threads in the hole that hold the main nozzle if you mess them up you will need a new carb. Put the square end of the punch on the jet and tap the it once or twice with the ballpeen (we are not driving nails here), then try the screwdriver. If does not want to move try the punch again with a couple more taps, the jet should screw out easily. I have removed a lot of carb jets over the years and this is the easiest way I have found to remove them.
james owen wrote on Wednesday, June 21, 2006 (PDT):You do not say how much the float should drop if the carb body is turned over. This check should be done after you check the float level for its 1/4" clearance from the carb gasket. I have had problems with the carb runing out of fuel while running and have found that the amount the float drops is the problem (especially with the rubber seat needles). Check your fuel line for stoppage first, if it flows ok the problem is most likely the amount the the float is allowed to drop allowing fuel to enter the carb bowl. I don't know how much the float drop should be so I measure the depth of the fuel bowl subtract 1/8" and set the float up that way (so the float does not rest on the bottom of the bowl). To set the float drop, bend the brass tab on the back of float pin area, (the brass tab contacts the float needle seat only allowing it to drop so far). If there is no tab on the back of the float pin area then the float will rest on the fuel bowl bottom (you can for get this step).
John Diercks wrote on Saturday, August 12, 2006 (PDT):Fantastic Article! Comparable to John Muir's "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive, For the Complete Idiot" Perhaps a "How to Keep Your Ford N Series Alive For the Complete Idiot" would be in order.
Jim Greer wrote on Friday, September 22, 2006 (PDT): Thanks for the instructions on the carb overhaul. Where can I find a wiring diagram for a 8n, side mounted distrubter? Thanks again
Rod Krischke wrote on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 (PST):Is the tuning procedure the same on other carbs that are similiar, such as the Marvel Shebler or the Zeniths that go on similar applications
Matthew Nemer-Kaiser wrote on Thursday, January 11, 2007 (PST):I can t begin to tell you how much I valued this information. I purchased a repair CD on Ebay but I didn t want to wait to get my tractor going. I am a school teacher by trade and I would like to complement you on this presentation.
Keith wrote on Saturday, February 03, 2007 (PST):Great article .Love this web site.Thanks so much
Bruce wrote on Sunday, April 08, 2007 (PDT):Thanks for the great pics on the articles. I am ready to start rebuilding my 8N for show and limited use. Starting with the carb and elec starting system. Much like my 1954 Chev 5-window truck, it will be almost ground up . Looking forward to your help and parts. Thanks, Bruce
Phil Miera wrote on Thursday, November 15, 2007 (PST):How is the float setting measured for 1947 8N--9/32?
Russ Charlton wrote on Sunday, December 02, 2007 (PST):Very informative and easily followed article. Hope to get a kit soon and rebirth my old 9N. Thanks.
Phil A wrote on Monday, January 14, 2008 (PST):where does the felt washer go?
Brooke Sr. wrote on Saturday, April 05, 2008 (PDT):This write up has no mention of choke or throttle shaft lip seals. Im working on an 52 8N with Marvel Scheebler TSX 951. This carb has rubber lip seal with brass back up ring on both. I cant find part numbers for either seal or any info on seal instalate direction , lip out or lip in. Thanks for any help
steve B wrote on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 (PDT): I wish i had this information 15 years ago. Great article.
Lion wrote on Tuesday, July 29, 2008 (PDT):clear concise,thanks
Lion wrote on Tuesday, July 29, 2008 (PDT):clear concise,thanks
judith wrote on Monday, February 16, 2009 (PST):NICE! this was a big help, clear, concise as well as inclusive, even for a neophyte.
george wrote on Saturday, August 29, 2009 (PDT):the article on carburetor overhaul with photos was very informative and comprehensive. the article was just what i needed. thanks p.s. why can't i print the article?
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